Friday, 30 May 2008

Dan's new route at Mangaokewa

Mangaokewa is a large limestone cliff that has everything (free camping by a river, flush loos, overhanging rock if it rains etc.) but few routes. In fact route development only started a few months ago. There are lines all over it waiting to be climbed and locals that were friendly and willing for us to use their 'development kit', including a petrol drill:-)
(The cliff is mostly hidden in the trees)
So after climbing 10 routes a day for a few days I got to it, putting up my first new route.

Clearing loose rock from the top, brushing and cleaning.

Drilling and putting in the bolts felt weird, especially because at home it would have been let using two dodgy small cams and a thread. But it's a sports climbing cliff so..
In the end the route was prepared and climbed clean by me about 6 times. I think it is about F6b+, so maybe 21. 'Moonshine' was born. The name after a good Sheffield beer and the cresent shaped line it takes.
Me on the FFA, Jo belaying and taking photos again!
On the good holds between the two harder sections on Paynes Ford style rock.

Well, the locals put bright plastic names tags on their routes and this was taken with the macro.

So go to New Zealand and don't miss out the excellent climbing in the North Island, even the topo's are free! (

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