What we've been up to

Saturday, 21 June 2008

Its a dogs life at Surfers Paradise

After hitting the coast we have been watching and trying (harder than it looks) to surf. We also had the good fortune to bump into a couple of climbers we wet in China who live near Surfers Paradise on the Gold coast (thanks for your hospitality Glenn and Sheree). Their pet Caviller Spaniels would have my Mum in tears.

Snapper point, Coolangatta. Gold Coast in background.

Geronimo - one of the two spaniels at Glenn and Sheree's.

Surfers Paradise

Today, while surfing, I saw two Humped Back Whales jumping out of the water! Amazing!

Trouble with Frankie

OK so Frankie is our car. The 1988 Ford Falcon Wagon. We were told it was a male Frankie but we suspect it is a stroppy 20yr old girl. She has been a little temperamental of late but when the going is good she's a fine ride and good to sleep in. She has only cost us a few days waiting around while she is at the garage....

Jo passed out in Frankie the Ford Falcon.

Monday, 16 June 2008

Cracking up at Frog Buttress

After a week in Brisbane trying to buy a car, climbing for a day at Kangaroo Point, sightseeing and staying at an ex-colleague of Jo's and new friends of ours we eventually hit the road in our 1988 Ford Falcon Station Wagon. The hour and a bit drive went well 'till we arrived in the car park at the top of Mt French and steam poured out of the bonnet. eek!

Ignoring this we have spent five excellent days climbing at the sunny crack climbing capital of Australia. Even Jo enjoyed the cracks after tapping up her hands! The classic four star routes were much enjoyed, although having a few more cams would have been nice. One climber claimed to have about 100, we have 9. Still its not how big your rack is, but what you do with it. And when at Frog, I leap frogged my gear up with me.

We are now down at Byron Bay and will be heading north. Time to go surfing...

Photos for this post will be added when I can be bothered. Tick:-)

On the excellent Gladiator 18** (which has nut placements for a change)

Me around the crux of C...**** 21 and a kiwi on Devils Dihedral ****20.

Wednesday, 4 June 2008

We have booked our next set of flights...

We now know when we will be where. The summary of the flights are:

Brisbane to San Francisco 11th Sept.
LA to Dublin 9th Dec.
Dublin to Heathrow 14th Dec.

This means we will be in the US for 89 days of our allowed 90.
The Dublin part was a happy cheap flight option.

We have also found a car we are going to buy tomorrow, an aussie classic, Holden Commodore of the '91 vintage. Fingers crossed with this!

Friday, 30 May 2008

Dan's new route at Mangaokewa

Mangaokewa is a large limestone cliff that has everything (free camping by a river, flush loos, overhanging rock if it rains etc.) but few routes. In fact route development only started a few months ago. There are lines all over it waiting to be climbed and locals that were friendly and willing for us to use their 'development kit', including a petrol drill:-)

(The cliff is mostly hidden in the trees)

So after climbing 10 routes a day for a few days I got to it, putting up my first new route.

Clearing loose rock from the top, brushing and cleaning.

Drilling and putting in the bolts felt weird, especially because at home it would have been let using two dodgy small cams and a thread. But it's a sports climbing cliff so..

In the end the route was prepared and climbed clean by me about 6 times. I think it is about F6b+, so maybe 21. 'Moonshine' was born. The name after a good Sheffield beer and the cresent shaped line it takes.

Me on the FFA, Jo belaying and taking photos again!

On the good holds between the two harder sections on Paynes Ford style rock.

Well, the locals put bright plastic names tags on their routes and this was taken with the macro.

So go to New Zealand and don't miss out the excellent climbing in the North Island, even the topo's are free! (www.freeclimb.co.nz)

More tourist stuff.

Drove to Taupo. Sky diving too expensive and weather not great so opted out this time. Quite disappointing but will manage it one day. Lake is emmence and you can still see Volcanoes.

Then drove onto Rotourora for geysers and egg stench. Stopped at Orakei Korako and saw mud pools, silica terraces and hot spring cave. Also went to Waitapu Thermal Wonderland to see the Lady Knox geyser that spurts about 12 meters high and the champagne pool with bright orange silica formations.

Drove further north to the Bay of Plenty where we cooked up a massive meat feast on a bar-b-que by the sea and then up the coast to Mount Maunganui to watch surfers. Too cold for us though.

Climbing in the North Island

We only left 2 and a half weeks for the North Island as everyone we spoke to said there was not as much to see as the South. When we arrived at Bryce's climbing shop and cafe we started to regret not arriving earlier. There is loads of climbing in the North Island but just not consolidated into one guide book.

We camped overnight in a school playing field costing 3 pounds a night with flushing toilet and water- luxury.

First day we climbed at Froggat Edge, no relation to the Peak District and no similarity. The routes are well bolted sport and the rock feels like pumice stone and sounds hollow. However, the pockets and friction made for really enjoyable climbing. Dan did 10 routes grade 16 to 23, Jo a few less but lead a few.

The second day we went to Waipapa crag. Lot more technical climbing so Jo suffered a little and Dan thrutched he way up one 18 much to Jo's delight.

Dan on The Arches (18)

The third day we went to Sheridan which was back to steep, pocketed long climbing. Dan climbed loads again and was barely phased when he came across a missing bolt. Jo did a few more leads without freaking.

Jo lowering of Grade 17.

After 3 days with sore bodies and fingers it was time for more tourist stuff.

A bit of the North Island.

Caught the Ferry across from the South Island to the North. It took 3 hours and surprisingly had sheep aboard. They really are everywhere in NZ. It took over an hour to leave Marlborough Sound but it was good Dolphin spotting territory.

Visited Wellington for a day seeing Te Papa museum and walking around town. Oddly small for a Capital city. Drove up the west coast and parked up on the beach front for the night. Expected problems from the locals as spoiling their view but instead received smiles. The radio gives you the impression Kiwis are fed up with people ruff camping in their vans, spoiling the area.

A big thing at Okahune, NZ carrot capital.

Drove up to Tongariro National Park to see some Volcanoes. Dan's first volcanic experience and he wasn't disappointed. There's three volcanoes in the park, all snow capped and active. We walked 17km to Tama Lakes for amazing views of the park.

Mount Ngauruhoe

Tama Lake and Mount Raupehu

Sunday, 11 May 2008

It is all JUST climbing.

But we are loving it.

For the last week now we have been staying in a house (with beds, showers, kitchen, TV and everything!) that is a few minutes form Paynes Ford by the sea. We met a couple of guys at the crag, one mentioned he had a hoilday house, or 'bach', that we could use and hay presto were lording it up like 'proper' people.

Thank you Mike.