What we've been up to

Home

2008-12-15T02:01:00.003-08:00

Sorry about the lack of any details during the last 3 or so months. The availbility of cheap internet access was not great in the states, as you would expect when mainly living in the dust with no running water.

I decided not to now update so we have some new pictures and news when we see you all in person.

Dublin

2008-12-15T02:01:00.001-08:00

LA

2008-12-15T02:00:00.003-08:00

Joshua Tree

2008-12-15T02:00:00.001-08:00

Around Moab

2008-12-15T01:59:00.000-08:00

Cramming in cracks at Indian Creek

2008-11-08T14:38:00.002-08:00

The cowboy views

2008-11-08T14:38:00.001-08:00

What goes on in Vagas does not stay in Vagas

2008-11-08T14:36:00.000-08:00

to be completed

Life at Camp 4

2008-10-09T14:47:00.000-07:00

Like on other place Camp 4 is THE climbers campsite. Living in the dirt, with no showers and only one tap for all water needs 216 paid up climbers are happy. Many more sneak out of the woods each morning to unofficially live here too.
The place is magic. People planning the next climb, sorting gear, coming back tired but with stories to tell, chilling out, living with the not so wildlife.

Cracking up in Yosemite

2008-10-09T14:27:00.000-07:00

Yosemite, the cliffs of dreams and heartbreak.
A few photos will do for now. More words may be added later.

San Francisco - welcome to the U. S. of A.

2008-10-09T14:06:00.000-07:00

America: the land of fast food, big cars and shops.
We ran around for a few days seeing the sights, eating junk and shopping for essentials, like a tent and climbing gear.

Hanging around in Brisbane

2008-09-09T15:12:00.000-07:00

During the past few weeks we have been in and around Brisbane.
We have been surfing a few times down at Surfers Paradise on the Gold Coast, climbing the 'best yet' multi-pitch sports route in the Glass House Mountains (Aphilion 17, 21, 22, 22), watching fireworks at the Brisbane River Festival, crack climbing at Frog (got the on-sights of Deliverance 23 and Child in Time 22), watching a Rugby match and a fair amount of sofa surfing at a friends house in Brisbane.

After much planning we are off to the States, to Yosemite via a few days in San Francisco. But first here are a few photos from the last few weeks in Oz.

"Crazy" John downing ketchup as part of a card game. Frog Campsite.

"Tazzie'' Jed attempting Impulse 24, Frog.

Brisbane Broncos Vs Sydney Kights at the Suncorp Stadium

2m long Monitor Lizard at Frog

So why did the car fail its safety test? Franky the Ford Falcon is now sold (unregistered without the test cert.)

Back at Frog and practicing cheating

2008-08-19T20:22:00.000-07:00

We have been revisiting Frog Buttress (an hour out of Brisbane), enjoying the fantastic crack climbs and practicing for the crack climbing in the States. The climbers here are such a friendly bunch, one example - waking up one wednesday morning we discovered some loacals were having an aid climbing day. When I showed interest (we are off the the aid climbing capital of the world in a few weeks - Yosemite) we were swiftly invited along. At the crag after a chat and how to aid discussion another local saw we had no aid gear and handed over a brand new spare set of aiders, daisys etc. We both had fun aidding up the cracks with the biggest rack we've ever used.

We also bumped into 'Crazy' John (met in China, seen in Tazmania and Arapilies) and Glenn (met in China, seen at Frog and visited on the Gold Coast) and met a guy called Gareth who knows and climbed with all the Melbourne climbing crowd. Small world!

Ahh, Noosa...

2008-08-19T20:21:00.001-07:00

On our way back to Brisbane we planned to stop of a night or two at Noosa. We ended up staying five days - enjoying some sunny weather, relaxing in the riverside campsite and reverting back to my childhood and going fishing.

We booked ourselves on a fishing charter out in the open sea, seeing at Dad was not in town Jo came along, but like a couple of others on the boat did not catch fish worth a photo. I did...

Big fish one - colourful but apparently not bid enough to kill to eat

Fish two - the biggest of the day and below - fish 3 hiding in 2s mouth

(I was not using 3 as bait but must have been a started for the dinner on my hook)

Turning around and heading South

2008-08-19T20:18:00.000-07:00

On the way south we made some stops that the rainy weather prohibited us from doing on our way to Port Douglas. First we followed the long road into the hinterland past lots of waterfalls. Too cold to stop and swim though.

That led us to Mission Beach which is really beautiful because it is under developed. A proper tropical paradise. Would have stayed longer but the camping was $35 per night (our most expensive). Another chance to spot wild Cassawary but I think they were all hiding away for the winter.

Further south and time for a days climbing at Mount Stewart near Townsville. It was great to be back on the rock after such a long break even though we both felt a little weak. The day was only hindered by not being able to find the routes from the topo description and Frankie deciding he hadn't seen an RAC man for a while. We couldn't start the car so had to pay $130 for the RAC man to put the car in neutral, not park as is normal, and start it immediately.

Diving the Yongala a day later was a highlight of the trip. After a quick test at 28m depth we explored the wreck of SS Yongala, seeing the toilets, the masts, the engine room and the `A' of Yongala. But what was most impressive was the fish life. We saw a deadly 3m Bull Shark, a Nurse Shark, got scared by inquisitive sea snakes (6th most poisonous snake in Aus), 2 Eagle rays, flirted with turtles and saw masses of huge fish and corals. Really amazing and the best way to finishing our scuba diving in Australia.

A Kookaburra at Ayre Beach

In the ongoing quest to save money we followed Australia's Grey Nomads and stopped overnight in free rest stops along the Bruce Highway. Some stops were amazing with free hot showers and barbeque's. The Grey Nomads were really friendly too, even offering to make us tea in their caravans in the cool evenings. However being British we said we were fine outside the car in the cold - Yeah right!

Dive, Dive, Dive.

2008-07-30T16:50:00.000-07:00

A fantastic day of diving on the Great Barrier Reef from the Quicksilver boat Silversonic. We did three dives around the Agincourt reef, seeing bright coral, a 2m White Tipped Shark, a couple of large Stingrays and many other usual suspects.

Once again i'm out of internet time before adding photos on the last few updates.
Just booked two more dives for tomorrow, the SS Yongala.

Frankie the Ford Falcon goes for an early bath in the Daintree

2008-07-24T19:05:00.000-07:00

From Port Douglas we took the ferry across the River Daintree to the Tropical Rainforest of the Daintree and Cape Tribulation.

It had been raining hard and some of the creeks had flooded the fords that cross the road. We backed away from one because it was 400mm high, only to come back later when it was a little lower but still off putting. 4x4's crossed with ease, then little hire cars splashed their way through. So we changed our minds and gave it a go. Our car is twice the size of those little hire cars anyway.

We got half way. Then we stalled. Jo jumped out of the upstream side of the car and the water jumped in over the door sill. Oh no! We pushed the car out and after a few tries and a little tinkering under the bonnet with loo roll and the spark plugs the car roared into life.

We 'splashed out' on an on-suite and nice meal in the evening. It was our second wedding anniversary after all!
The next day was a fantastic blue sky day, crocs and wildlife to be spotted.

The Whitsundays

2008-07-20T19:17:00.000-07:00

We are just back from a three day, two night sail around the Whitsundays and out to the Great Barrier Reef. Although most of the time we were under power due to a lack of wind we had a good time and were pleased we choose a slightly more expensive boat with 14 on board and not the 28+ person option.

We stopped off a Whitehaven Beach one of the top ten beaches of the world. We played games on the squeaky sand and wore our stinger suits to go swimming.
(photo)

We stopped for the night at a small bay on Hook Island. Here the next morning we dived, seeing a Blue Spotted Stingray as well as other fish life and coral.

On the way out to the Great Barrier Reef we saw many Humped Back Wales splashing around, trying to impress each other (sex on their minds).

We Dived again in the afternoon, a fast drift dive past an impressive reef wall and Jo saw a turtle.
After many snorkels and lots of relaxing we headed back to the mainland, under sail, and passed the Greenpeace ship protesting in the harbour.

I am still bobbing up and down now.

Fraiser Island

2008-07-13T19:56:00.000-07:00

Having met up with Jim we escaped Childers and made our way to Hervey Bay. After a spot more fishing we hired a four wheel drive Ute and spent two days on the Island.

We all had excellent fun driving in the sand either along the beach or the very bumpy inland tracks. The views from the beach and of the lakes were fantastic.

Mandarins and Fish

2008-07-13T19:50:00.000-07:00

So, after an afternoon of planting mature grape vines we landed a 2-3 week job picking mandarins. Good pay at $50 per huge 1.5x1.5x1m bin and we managed 8 to 10 bins a day going flat out. However we worked too well and after three days we were given two days off for the packers to catch up, then a few more days off, then rain and so on. We were eventually able to leave after a week of sitting around.

So, good pay when we worked but over all not great.

On our days off we bought a cheap fishing rod and when to the local Woodgate Beach. From here we caught Flathead, Sole, Bream and numerous other fish that needed to grow up before ending up on the dinner plate.

Glasshouse Mountains and Australia Zoo

2008-07-13T19:45:00.000-07:00

Quick update:

Went climbing at Tibro, did a few short sports climbs. Kind of similar to Peak district limestone (the Embankment). Will hopefully go back for a longer climb or two.

Did a day at Australia Zoo. Photos may be added later.

UPDATED 20/8/08:

Photos as promised:

Its a dogs life at Surfers Paradise

2008-06-21T03:27:00.000-07:00

After hitting the coast we have been watching and trying (harder than it looks) to surf. We also had the good fortune to bump into a couple of climbers we wet in China who live near Surfers Paradise on the Gold coast (thanks for your hospitality Glenn and Sheree). Their pet Caviller Spaniels would have my Mum in tears.

Snapper point, Coolangatta. Gold Coast in background.

Geronimo - one of the two spaniels at Glenn and Sheree's.

Surfers Paradise

Today, while surfing, I saw two Humped Back Whales jumping out of the water! Amazing!

Trouble with Frankie

2008-06-21T02:52:00.000-07:00

OK so Frankie is our car. The 1988 Ford Falcon Wagon. We were told it was a male Frankie but we suspect it is a stroppy 20yr old girl. She has been a little temperamental of late but when the going is good she's a fine ride and good to sleep in. She has only cost us a few days waiting around while she is at the garage....

Jo passed out in Frankie the Ford Falcon.

Cracking up at Frog Buttress

2008-06-16T17:01:00.001-07:00

After a week in Brisbane trying to buy a car, climbing for a day at Kangaroo Point, sightseeing and staying at an ex-colleague of Jo's and new friends of ours we eventually hit the road in our 1988 Ford Falcon Station Wagon. The hour and a bit drive went well 'till we arrived in the car park at the top of Mt French and steam poured out of the bonnet. eek!

Ignoring this we have spent five excellent days climbing at the sunny crack climbing capital of Australia. Even Jo enjoyed the cracks after tapping up her hands! The classic four star routes were much enjoyed, although having a few more cams would have been nice. One climber claimed to have about 100, we have 9. Still its not how big your rack is, but what you do with it. And when at Frog, I leap frogged my gear up with me.

We are now down at Byron Bay and will be heading north. Time to go surfing...

Photos for this post will be added when I can be bothered. Tick:-)

On the excellent Gladiator 18** (which has nut placements for a change)

Me around the crux of C...**** 21 and a kiwi on Devils Dihedral ****20.

We have booked our next set of flights...

2008-06-04T00:39:00.000-07:00

We now know when we will be where. The summary of the flights are:

Brisbane to San Francisco 11th Sept.
LA to Dublin 9th Dec.
Dublin to Heathrow 14th Dec.

This means we will be in the US for 89 days of our allowed 90.
The Dublin part was a happy cheap flight option.

We have also found a car we are going to buy tomorrow, an aussie classic, Holden Commodore of the '91 vintage. Fingers crossed with this!

Dan's new route at Mangaokewa

2008-05-30T18:02:00.001-07:00

Mangaokewa is a large limestone cliff that has everything (free camping by a river, flush loos, overhanging rock if it rains etc.) but few routes. In fact route development only started a few months ago. There are lines all over it waiting to be climbed and locals that were friendly and willing for us to use their 'development kit', including a petrol drill:-)

(The cliff is mostly hidden in the trees)

So after climbing 10 routes a day for a few days I got to it, putting up my first new route.

Clearing loose rock from the top, brushing and cleaning.

Drilling and putting in the bolts felt weird, especially because at home it would have been let using two dodgy small cams and a thread. But it's a sports climbing cliff so..

In the end the route was prepared and climbed clean by me about 6 times. I think it is about F6b+, so maybe 21. 'Moonshine' was born. The name after a good Sheffield beer and the cresent shaped line it takes.

Me on the FFA, Jo belaying and taking photos again!

On the good holds between the two harder sections on Paynes Ford style rock.

Well, the locals put bright plastic names tags on their routes and this was taken with the macro.

So go to New Zealand and don't miss out the excellent climbing in the North Island, even the topo's are free! (www.freeclimb.co.nz)

More tourist stuff.

2008-05-30T17:45:00.000-07:00

Drove to Taupo. Sky diving too expensive and weather not great so opted out this time. Quite disappointing but will manage it one day. Lake is emmence and you can still see Volcanoes.

Then drove onto Rotourora for geysers and egg stench. Stopped at Orakei Korako and saw mud pools, silica terraces and hot spring cave. Also went to Waitapu Thermal Wonderland to see the Lady Knox geyser that spurts about 12 meters high and the champagne pool with bright orange silica formations.

Drove further north to the Bay of Plenty where we cooked up a massive meat feast on a bar-b-que by the sea and then up the coast to Mount Maunganui to watch surfers. Too cold for us though.

Climbing in the North Island

2008-05-30T17:27:00.000-07:00

We only left 2 and a half weeks for the North Island as everyone we spoke to said there was not as much to see as the South. When we arrived at Bryce's climbing shop and cafe we started to regret not arriving earlier. There is loads of climbing in the North Island but just not consolidated into one guide book.

We camped overnight in a school playing field costing 3 pounds a night with flushing toilet and water- luxury.

First day we climbed at Froggat Edge, no relation to the Peak District and no similarity. The routes are well bolted sport and the rock feels like pumice stone and sounds hollow. However, the pockets and friction made for really enjoyable climbing. Dan did 10 routes grade 16 to 23, Jo a few less but lead a few.

The second day we went to Waipapa crag. Lot more technical climbing so Jo suffered a little and Dan thrutched he way up one 18 much to Jo's delight.

Dan on The Arches (18)

The third day we went to Sheridan which was back to steep, pocketed long climbing. Dan climbed loads again and was barely phased when he came across a missing bolt. Jo did a few more leads without freaking.

Jo lowering of Grade 17.

After 3 days with sore bodies and fingers it was time for more tourist stuff.

A bit of the North Island.

2008-05-30T17:12:00.000-07:00

Caught the Ferry across from the South Island to the North. It took 3 hours and surprisingly had sheep aboard. They really are everywhere in NZ. It took over an hour to leave Marlborough Sound but it was good Dolphin spotting territory.

Visited Wellington for a day seeing Te Papa museum and walking around town. Oddly small for a Capital city. Drove up the west coast and parked up on the beach front for the night. Expected problems from the locals as spoiling their view but instead received smiles. The radio gives you the impression Kiwis are fed up with people ruff camping in their vans, spoiling the area.

A big thing at Okahune, NZ carrot capital.

Drove up to Tongariro National Park to see some Volcanoes. Dan's first volcanic experience and he wasn't disappointed. There's three volcanoes in the park, all snow capped and active. We walked 17km to Tama Lakes for amazing views of the park.

Mount Ngauruhoe

Tama Lake and Mount Raupehu

It is all JUST climbing.

2008-05-11T22:00:00.000-07:00

But we are loving it.

For the last week now we have been staying in a house (with beds, showers, kitchen, TV and everything!) that is a few minutes form Paynes Ford by the sea. We met a couple of guys at the crag, one mentioned he had a hoilday house, or 'bach', that we could use and hay presto were lording it up like 'proper' people.

Thank you Mike.

Farewell Spit

What is going on here? Cows in tarps?

No job, no house, no need to shave.

Making use of the kayaks Mike said we could use. Around Abel Tasman.Spot the seals...Err, Jo. What are you wearing?

The Paynes of getting Older (Jo turns 30 at Paynes Ford)

2008-05-05T22:22:00.000-07:00

Jo's birthday at the overhung Bo Peep Slab
Flashing a grade 24 at Bo Peep, Pohara.
Jo having just lowered off having redpointed her first grade 21, Make My Grumpy Cat Dance. Excellent effort!
Taking a rest on the classic '1080 and the letter G' 23.

Having climbed and down climbed to clean 4 routes over this roof today my arms are a little tired right now.

Big Fish

2008-05-05T22:05:00.001-07:00

We arrived at Paynes Ford in torrential rainfall which consequently meant the climbing routes were dripping. The best solution to sitting fustrated drinking coffee and beer all day was to drive 5 hours to Kaikoura on the East Coast near Christchurch to go Whale Watching.

We were aboard a fastcat boat, captained by a man whom appeared to know the whales every move by either listening to them underwater or by radio from the planes flying overhead. We saw 4 sperm whales on the surface and doing their tail lifting dives. The average number of sightings in 2 a trip so we felt very excited and lucky.

We also saw a pod of Dusky Dolphins whom were too shy for photos and some New Zealand Furry Seals.

Wanaka and West Coast

2008-05-05T21:59:00.001-07:00

We had 3 fantastic days in Wanaka. The sky was clear blue every day and with all the autumnal colours of the trees the views were spectacular.

Lake Wanaka

We climbed trad and sports routes in the valley of Mount Aspiring National Park on pretty good Schiste rock. Jo strangely developed a head for leading and lead her hardest route 17 on bolts and 15 on trad. Maybe there are some side effects to bungy jumping.

We also decided to go tramping in true NZ style. Only a day's walk but published to take up to 11 hours. It started up hill to the 1500m peak of Mount Roy then across the Summit track and down through a creek. It took us only 6 hours but this was long enough when we only had 1.5 litres of water between us. We hitched a lift with another traveller to get back to the car then started the drive across to the west coast.

View from the summit

After a full days driving up the west coast past the Fox and Frans Josef Glaciers and following coastal roads that could rival the Great Ocean Road in Aus we parked up for the night in a lay by and watched the sunset.

A perfect evening with a cold beer watching the sunset

and the sand flies biting your ankles.

Queenstown Fun

2008-04-29T14:56:00.001-07:00

Queenstown is not only known for it's adrenaline sports but also being incredibly beautiful, hence fit for a queen. We spent the evenings watching to sunset light up the Remarkable mountains over the lake from the $7 per person per night Department of Conservation Campground.

We spent a few days in Queenstown climbing at Wye Creek and fixing the flat tyre that we had no tools for (it keeps happening to me in vans, hey Dad!). But we also got our fix of real adrenaline by bungy jumping 47m at Kawarauo Bridge in the morning and then taking a jet boat ride around the Kawarauo Gorge in the afternoon. Unfortunately the budget (or our frugal ways) meant no souvenir photos or video.

Turn your head and you'll see what we did!

Both activities were awesome (and I only save that word for special occasions).

Around South Island

2008-04-29T14:47:00.000-07:00

In between climbing trips we have driven far to see some of the better sights of South Island. We drank coffee and counted Patagonia downees in Dunedin and saw some Albatross chicks at the Royal Albatross Center on the Otago Pennisular. Then after a cold night in the van we had breakfast by the large fish.

Not really one of the better sights but big and one of the better photos!

Then drove through 3 inches of snow to Te Anau and then onto Milford Sound which was very beautiful. A boat ride took us around the sound to look at the cliffs and waterfalls with a stop at the underwater observatory to see some real fish.

Christchurch, Castle Hill and down.

2008-04-14T13:00:00.000-07:00

So we spent a few days in Christchurch and finally hired a campavan for our 2 months in New Zealand. Spent a day climbing at Mt Pleasent and Britten Crag in the hot sun - thought it was going to be cold here.

The very English Christchurch punting.Our Jucy Crib that we had for 2 nights before getting our bigger van.

On our way up to Castle Hill we went home (sort of).

Then to Castle Hill. Flock Hill, Quantum Fields and Spittle Hill were explored - very similar to Font - lime not sandstone, grass field not sandy forest, no crowds or polished holds.

Getting down from the Castle Hill boulders can somethimes be the exciting part.Our Jucy Cruiza - a Toyota HiAce in one of the free nightstops.

The Palm trees and view from Hanging Rock Crag near Timaru.

Bouldering in the mist at Hulk Hogan, near Duntroon.

We are now at Dunedin having spent some time yesterday at Long Beach (did a bit of climbing there too).

Goodbye Melbourne

2008-04-08T18:17:00.000-07:00

We had a ball. Thanks for all the friendship.

Gotta keep truckin'

New Zealand here we come...

You know its the right time to leave Arapiles when...

2008-03-23T14:37:00.000-07:00

Stu working his magicon Voodoo 19

Easter weekend and off to Arapiles almost the whole of the climbing Melbourne community goes. The Pines campsite was packed, think free Font campsite on Easter weekend during foot and mouth year.

I had the best of weekend. On Friday I managed High Dive second go - my first 23 lead on trad gear. Did some other good ones on Sat, then pulled it out and climbed Oresties second go on Sunday (I got suck first go while putting in the gear and could not move) - my first 24 on trad gear.

The botton part of Oresties 24
Mid way and on the top traverse of Oresties

Sunday afternoon I managed to talk Mark into climbing with me even though the sun was out as it was my last day climbing at Arapiles. We soloed ?? up the front of the Watchtower, ran down, soloed Watchtower Chimney (12), ran down and ran up Skink (18) in two long pitches. Excellent fun! BUT the strangest thing...

Back in November Jo and mines first climb in Australia was Watchtower Crack, we had a good climb but it rained quite hard when I was leading the top pitch. Now, then I was sat at the top of Skink belaying Mark a lone dark cloud came over and large drops of rain fell for 3 mins or so. Others were there, I'm not making this up.
This was at the top of my first climb in Oz (and so Arapilies) and the top of my last climb at Arapiles as we are off to New Zealand soon.
Is this a freak event or what? (and if its what, what is what?)
Time to leave Arapiles.

I had to leave a day before everyone else (including Jo) to go to work on Easter Monday.

Photos will of course be added when Jo arrives back with my camera.

Doing some sums...

2008-03-17T17:34:00.000-07:00

So what have we been spending the last 7 months doing?

Since leaving England 219 days ago the stats so far are:
108 days Traveling & Sightseeing = 49%
73 days climbing (331 pitches) = 33%
33 days working = 15%
5 days diving = 2%

Humm, feels like we've been working all the time at the moment but it appears we have no grounds to complain.

The Australian F1 Grand Prix

2008-03-17T03:49:00.000-07:00

So another 'while I'm away traveling' ticked off the list. And what a great day it was too.
Being very hot and sunny the announcements kept saying you must keep hydrated, so down went a beer or two. The pre F1 races were strange but a good spot was found (even with our cheep tickets) at the exit to corner two. We saw crashes and cheered Lewis Hamilton to victory.

Photos will follow when i get around to it.

Loving and Loathing - the Mount Buffalo weekend.

2008-03-11T02:47:00.000-07:00

After two weeks of working we get a three day weekend off. So at last we take advantage of the hot weather forecast and drive up to the alpine Mount Buffalo.

Really good to see a new area, excellent campsite (with running water and Hot showers!) and classic stared routes to be climbed.

All the climbs that followed cracks and dykes were much fun ( or so I thought) but the prodominant slabs were a horror show - four carrot bolts in 30m of rough cheese grating granite with only 'padding' holds anyone?

Anyway, we just about coped and added another crag to our global list of ticks.

Mark belaying Meg on a grade 20 slab.

Mark near the top of a grade 22 arete. The dyke flake on the right was an excellent 19.

Me, at the top of the same 22 arete - hard bit done but still pooing myself with the friction slab top out (the last bolt being at least 10m below!).

Photos of us on the Totem Pole by Simon Carter

2008-02-16T14:25:00.000-08:00

I've just been sent a link for the photos Simon Carter took of Mark and I on the Totem Pole. They can be found at

http://www.onsight-photography.com/photos/free_route/

There are also some on his main website gallery

http://www.onsight.com.au/gallery/

If only I had a bundle of spare cash, I could buy a print..

The best crag in the world - Arapiles revisited.

2008-02-14T21:02:00.001-08:00

Although Jo and I had five days off together, starting on a Sunday resulted in a bit of searching and asking around to get a lift out to Arapiles and back. Friends of my new work mates saved us expensive hiring or time hanging around in Melbourne.

Five fantastic days of climbing were had, the weather was sunny but with a cool wind at times, and the company made a pleasant change to the norm. of just the two of us.

Working life in Melbourne

2008-01-31T18:13:00.000-08:00

Nursing, Bogong and other bits.

The Blue Mountains should be renamed 'The Blue Valleys'.

2008-01-31T18:07:00.000-08:00

Beautiful.
Wicked Van
Climbing.

Had a FANTASTIC 6 days climbing. Both loved it. Climbed loads of classic trad routes, sports climbed a little harder, swam/washed in a dam and lived out of the van. Perfect.

A truly amazing place but being just the two of us did not pick up the camera much.

The Merio Van

They don't mice with their words!

The Kitchen - Dan cooking again...

Some Blue Valleys

Gotham City (otherwise known as Sydney)

2008-01-31T18:04:00.000-08:00

So our Sydney / Blue Mountains trip was shortened to 8 days in total due to work commitments- obviously not enough time to dive up from Melbourne - so off we went with Virgin Blue.
We stayed in Sydney for two nights (and 2 days) first walking around the parks (seeing masses of bats) then the Opera House and finally getting on a harbor tour and visiting the aquarium.

On the second day we chilled out on Bondi beach and wished we had more money to hire surf boards. The waves looked fab. We also walked along the coast.

On the third day we made a visit to the art gallery then picked up our Wicked Van....

Boats, Bikes, Jobs, Gym and Tennis.

2008-01-17T14:55:00.000-08:00

Having spent the last two weeks in Melboune things are just about coming together. Last week was mainly spent on the fustrating task of finding work. Jo is now a registered nurse and can get work through the agency from Monday when wanted and I have a job at Melbournes only real climbing shop, starting...? ( To be arranged soon I hope).

At the weekend we were invited to a new friends parents house near the coast. Here Jo took charge of a dingy catermeragne (Hoby-Cat) and in turn took Mark and I out on the river estuary in blustery conditions. Excellent fun and good skills Jo!

We started looking for some cheap secondhand bikes to use around town and did not win a few on ebay before being very generously offered a pair of mountain bikes by Adam and Cath. They have new road bikes and seemed pleased to regain space in the house for a few months. People really are welcoming and generous. We can now make it to the beach in about a 15min cycle - much faster than the tram.

To try and keep any climbing fitness (or even improve) we have both joined a gym (the climbing gym is too expensive) and have been using the weights, cardio, swimming pool, Jacuzzi and sauna almost daily.

Last night we went to Australian Open to see some tennis - a first for both of us.

We are off climbing in the Gramps for this weekend and maybe to Sydney and the Blue Mountains next week, depending on when my job starts - come on phone, ring!!

New Years in Hobart

2008-01-06T22:50:00.000-08:00

New Year was celebrated in Hobart. We were booked into a hostel so decided to sample some Tasmanian delights at The Taste. Our top taste award went to Two Metres Tall Ale Company who produce the closest thing we could find in Australia to real bitter - no fizz.

We spent the rest of the afternoon hunting down more beer in Hobart.

Looked around the yatchs that had completed the Sydney to Hobart race.

Celebrated the start of 2008 with fireworks.

On New Years Day Mark proved what happens to climbers when they can't climb enough. Running is a dangerous sport.

After climbing at Mount Wellington we at last experienced a proper Aussie Bar-b-que.

The views from Mount Wellington were impressive.

After two and a bit weeks of 'holiday' it was finally back to Melbourne for some serious work finding just so we can pay for the next episode of the trip.

Tasmania 4 - THE Totem Pole

2008-01-06T22:48:00.000-08:00

If you have not heard of the Totem Pole then your probably not a climber but it is a 60m sea stack with a diameter of only about 4m - yes, it looks like it should have fallen down years ago. It is perhaps most famous for the Paul Pritchard accident and his book on his recovery titled The Totem Pole, but has also been photographed by the Aussie pro climbing photographer Simon Carter (he was also on the first free accent team) and shown in his books and calenders http://www.onsight.com.au/.

The Totem Pole was at the top of Marks tick list and we had to give it a go.

The Totem pole from the sea - mainland on right and candlestick on right

The walk in to the Tote is 1 1/4 hours so our hearts sank when we saw our early start had not paid off and others were on the cliff, but no, they weren't there to climb but to walk a slack line from the top of the Totem pole to the mainland cliff! So while we sorted gear we watched the first slackline walks off the Totem Pole!

The first job if you are to climb the Tote is to abseil down the mainland sea cliff and swing on the end of the 60m rope like crazy until you can reach across the sea washed boulders, hang onto greasy side pulls and fiddle a carrot bolt plate on the cheapskate hangerless bolts. This was my job, as Mark was to be leading the two climbing pitches - at grade 24/25 its a bit hard for me.
Once Mark had slid down to me and I took a video clip on my camera (not good quality but worth a look - click on it to play).

(Oh yes, we did not have enough carrot bolt plates so that's why I used some dodgy rivet wires on one of the belay bolts)

Mark onsighted the first pitch in good style to the mid way ledge.

The second pitch was hard, but had some proper bolts on it. Just as Mark was starting up I noticed someone absailing down the cliff in a strange position. They then stopped a produced a large camera, 'Hay Mark' I called, 'you've got a photographer, you'll be famous'. Mark promptly fell off at the second bolt - d'oh.

Back at the belay ledge we jested that it would be freaky if it was Simon Carter taking more photos at the Totem Pole. Marks second attempt saw him to but not past the crux (you need to use a side pull that is blind to you around the arete). He made it to the top of this HARD pitch and had a little cheer.

Mark Climbing the second pitch

I covered the ground to the top with a couple of rests (the excuse being I was dragging the abb rope to aid our escape). We signed the summit book and I slid back along our abb rope, now as a Tyrolean traverse.Once safely back on the mainland we confirmed that the photographer was indeed Simon Carter and had taken photos and would let us see them back at the campsite.

We explained there was no space at the campsite and we had had to sneaked in the night before. Before long the offer was made that we could pitch our tents on their site - and so ended the Totem Pole climb.

The next day, and probably for the first and last time ever Mark and I signed 'Model Release' forms so Simon could sell the photos. And yes he said he would sort us out some copies :-)

Tasmania 3 - At the seaside

2008-01-06T22:46:00.000-08:00

The Freycinet Peninsula is very much like Cornwall - gorgeous coves, beaches, granite sea cliffs and occasional big seas.

Mark leading 'Walking the Plank' 19 on Alchemy Wall

Dan and Mark getting to the start of a route on Tetragammaton Buttress in suddenly big seas.

Christmas and Boxing day. (Taz 2)

2008-01-06T22:45:00.000-08:00

Christmas Eve in the Ben Lomond hut, warming minced pies, feet and wet shoes.

Christmas morning - opening presents in front of the fire.
The three of us and car at a sunny beach on the way to the B&B on Christmas day.
Christmas lunch on the beach at Coles Bay (after a good shower and change into Christmas outfits).
Christmas day walk along the beach.
Boxing day walk to Wineglass Bay
And quick swim in the clold water.

Tasmania 1 - Taking lessons from a crack addict.

2008-01-06T22:40:00.000-08:00

The Tasmania trip started like many other, taking a 12hr ferry over with a car packed with gear and supplies. To save time in Taz we had gone food shopping, however we did not know that your not allowed to take fresh fruit, veg or fish into the state. So we had to bin kg's of veg, and ate the fruit and supposed Christmas morning smoked salmon on the ferry.

Over the 12hr crossing we ate most of this fruit and refused to buy any other food on the boat.

We headed to Ben Lomond, Scottish sounding and Scottish feeling (cold and wet). The climbing looked amazing but after 2 days of doing the horrid boulder hopping walk in we only completing 2 climbs (in drizzle).

Frews Flutes area on Ben Lomond

Dan using bridging to rest from the splitter crack climbs

My first tape job to protect my hands

The crack master - probably laughing at my inefficiency to crack climb, or in need of a biscuit after hauling up that stack of cams.
More Aussie wildlife - wombat

Luckily we could shelter from the weather in the free climbers hut

We escaped the weather on Christmas eve to the sunny Cataract Gorge, here Mark is on 'Third Rising' 24.

Life at the Pines - Mt Arapiles

2007-12-02T20:56:00.000-08:00

The climbing Mecca of Australia - Mt Arapilies. We have been staying at the campsite (known as the Pines) below the cliffs on and off for the last 3 weeks (with time out the the Gt. Ocean Rd.).

A similar photo was on my calinder before we left the UK. 'Kachoong' 21

Above and below: 'A taste of Honey' 21. I almost lost it on the footless move right after the bottom shot but just made the crux to the ledge.

Stumpy - strange beasts that like to hide under your tent. At about the size of a house brick they could make a pillow.

BIG things - Part 1

2007-12-02T20:51:00.000-08:00

This may become a regular feature if we find more..

We have also seen many real ones in the trees along the Great Ocean Road, but this was far more impressive! ??

The Great Ocean Road

2007-12-02T20:45:00.000-08:00

This will be written about by Jo when she has time.

Hay Jack, I've been surfing!

2007-11-18T13:21:00.000-08:00

After a few days in Melborne mainly sorting out bank stuff, phones and looking at cars we finally hit the beach - the waves hit back harder though. Full on smiles all round - surfing - welcome to Australia!

Melborne and the Yarra

Dan, Mark and Pat - The surfers??

Dan hanging 9 1/2 (but on my feet!)

One night in Bangkok

2007-11-11T22:53:00.000-08:00

Golden Palace, Koh San Road, Thai boxing and more.
Photos to follow.

Dive, dive, dive.

2007-11-11T00:32:00.000-08:00

Back from the Similans diving trip and now in Bangkok. Still bobbing up and down as if on a boat and feel like i have a mask still on. Luckily i realise i can't just pee myself when out of the water.

The trip was FANTASTIC. Most dives were to 30m below, which was the deepest either of us have been and we saw loads. Sharks, octopus, cuttlefish mating, Barracuda, stingrays, etc etc.
I did all 14 dives, (4 a day and 2 on the last day), the night dives were scary!

Kee our Divemaster for the trip

Ahhh, my head if fizzing with Nitrogen and we fly tomorrow...

No photos of underwater stuff though.

2 days on Koh Lanta

2007-11-04T21:34:00.000-08:00

Took a boat accross from Phi Phi to Lanta and arrived at a very wet and deserted set of beach bungalows - not too impressed. Made the bar next door open for the first time this season and things seemed better at the end of the night...

Walked along a very long Long Beach the next morning, bright sunny and more what was expected. Spent the rest of the day chilling out and watching a sunset.
Boat back to Phi Phi this morning to find that in the last 2 days accomodation prices have shot up. Perhaps its a good thing we are leaving thailand as we could not afford these prices - makes our live aboard Similan dive trip (that starts tomorrow) even better value (250 GBP for 4 days, 4 nights and 14 dives).

Phi Phi

2007-11-01T04:34:00.000-07:00

A change of scenery on the busy Koh Phi Phi. It might seem like a nightmare after the peace and quite of Tonsai but it seems like a welcome relief. We are staying in a hut right on the beach with only mosquitoes and monkeys to annoy us. The climbing is right above us and it is easier. And we have a choice of restaurants and shops.

Ko Phi Phi from the climbing wall ( our hut is in the left bottom corner)

Went Scuba Diving. Amazing fish and coral. Dan saw a shark and an octopus. I struggled with my ears but managed the second dive fine and saw cuttlefish and Morey eels.

Looking attractive after a dive in Maya Bay (where the beach was shot)

On the rocks at Ton Sai beach

2007-11-01T04:31:00.000-07:00

Two weeks have been spent staying at Ton Sai and climbing around the beaches there. We may have been here before but it was that good...

Photos say more than words (and internet is not free here)...

Dan on Burnt Offerings 7a+ (photo taken by Jo while belaying - not bad huh!)

Ton Sai beach in the background.

One of the local climbers hanging out. Dam those guys are good!

A blurred shot of the second i was on the slack line between the Freedon bar and the Ton Sai overhang.

Angkor What?

2007-11-01T04:29:00.000-07:00

We arrived in Siem Riep by bus to see the highly renowned tourist attraction of Angkor Wat and it's surrounding temples.

We booked the tuc tuc for a sunrise start but this was quickly changed when it thunder stormed all night. However the weather improved throughout the day. We followed the one day tour from the lonely planet, which is apparently sacrilege due to the vast number of temples, only seeing four.

Ankgor Wat is the grandess temple with impressive carvings along the walls and high towers, however the number of tourists kind of spoilled the effect.

Ta Phrom was the best being in a state of disrepair. The massive wall were supporting, or being supported by huge trees. It was the setting for tomb raider and has a very Indiana Jones feel about it.

Phreah Khan was pretty much a ruin.

Inside Ankgor Thom, the largest complex of temples, was the Bayon. This was amazing with faces on every tower.

All Ankgored out we didn't wait for sunset and ware in the bar by 4 30pm.

Friends blogspot addresses

2007-10-11T05:11:00.000-07:00

The Meersbrook blog
http://meersbrook.blogspot.com/

Jim's travel blog
http://www.jamesmash.blogspot.com/

Phnom Phen - Pol Pot - what a nasty man!

2007-10-11T05:05:00.000-07:00

We have arrived in Cambodia for only a flying visit through to Thailand. Just time to see the sights of Phnom Pehn and Siem Riep.

In the morning in Phnom Pehn we made an early start to see Tai Chi in front of the Royal Palace, however after a navigational error we got to the riverside too late. While we ate breakfast we watched lots of Cambodian in their 'Sunday best' ride past. We later discovered they were celebrating a Buddhist Festival which meant the city was empty and the Silver Pagoda closed.

The Silver Pagoda

Food Donations in a Buddhist Temple

Buddha

After lunch we caught a tuc tuc to the Killing Fields and S21 Genoside museum. The both sites aimed to remember the atrocities caused by the Khmer Rouge. The Killing Fields showed the remains of mass graves of the viciously murdered S21 prisoners. The grounds still had bones and clothing scattered around and some 800 of the 1500 skulls found were placed in the memorial tower.

The skulls in the memorial tower.

After we took the tuc tuc to the Genocide Museum of Tuol Sleng (S21). The museum is the prison in which intellectual people were tortured and remains how it was found. The museum house photographs and biographies of prisoners and their families. Both places were very sad and sombre places which seemed strangely to still need signs asking people not to laugh.

The Mekong Delta to Cambodia

2007-10-11T05:03:00.000-07:00

Our final days in Vietnam on the way to Cambodia were spent in the Mekong Delta. This is the area of land in the south of Vietnam at the bottom of the Mekong river after it has flown through China, Tibet, Laos, Thailand and Cambodia. It is primarily known for it's rice paddies but also grows many types of fruit. We spent a lot of time on boats of various size and condition with a few bus rides thrown in for good measure. The first day we visited a floating market, coconut sweet makers, rice corn makers and then watched the sunset at Chua Hang Pagoda near Chau Doc. Early the next morning we squeezed in a tour to a floating village with a fish farm under a house and a visit to a Cham Minority Village before a long ride past the Cambodian border to Phenom Phen.

One of the 'Nine Dragons' of the Mekong River

Rowing up a canal

Dalat and Saigon

2007-10-11T05:02:00.000-07:00

After hearing people rave about Dalat we left the coast and headed inland. We took a coach tour of the area after decided moutaining biking was too expensive. We initially took a cable car from Dalat to Truc Lam Meditation Monastery. Then we went to see a waterfall via a tobogan ride with dan at the controls. The most impressive Dragon pagoda was visited next and covered in tiles and smashed potery mosiac.

Dragon Pagoda

Dan beating a drum at Dragon Pagoda

In the afternoon we visted a Lat Minority Village and was talked to by the village leader and offered a taste of his rice wine.

Dan sucking up the rice wine

They don't have asbos but they still have hoodies

After Dalat we visited Saigon (or Ho Chi Minh City) for a short 1 day stay. This gave us enough time to visit the main sites of The Cu Chi Tunnels, where we passed on the chance to shoot army guns, but went down a very cramped tunnel.

Jo in the Cu Chi Tunnel

In the afternoon we took a tour around the city visiting the quite graffic war remnents museum, reunification palace and a post office. I know strange to walk around a post office with nothing to post.

Cyclo driver catching a nap

Beach and Boat days in Nha Trang

2007-10-11T04:59:00.000-07:00

At last we've found the sun. We only had to travel around 1000 kilometers to find it and there is still rumours of typhoons in Asia.

The first day was spent lying on the beach and swimming in the warm sea until we were properly cooked. Don't worry, the factor 30 stopped a complete burn. A run in with a local boy wanting to play Connect 4 (we only assume for money) would answer our refusal with "Why, you scared?".

The second day in Nha Trang was a highlight of Vietnam. We took a tourist boat ride to see four Islands - Mun, Hon, Tam and Mieu. After an easy ride we arrived at Mun Island, recognised for it's black rock. Here we went snorkeling. We were really desperate to use our brand new snorkels that we had carried around for 7 weeks that we forgot to remember our boat. We swam along the reef with the coral and fish improving by the stroke. We saw Emperor fish pairs and parrot fish, and Dan got attacked by a very defensive Clown (Nemo) fish. When we returned to the boats we had to board 2 others before we found our own, we were apparently very late and the boat had been waiting for us. Embarrassingly our reputation did not improve throughout the day. We were unable to stop for lunch at the second island as the wind had picked up and the sea had become choppy. We stopped for lunch at Hon Island and met some really nice people from the Netherlands and America. On the boat the crew all started singing song from around the world accompanied by a barrel drum kit and we danced on the boat. After the floating bar was opened which involved jumping into the sea, sitting in a life ring and drinking distinctly bad Dalat Wine with Pineapple from a floating bar. Obviously, in true British style we stayed by the bar. The final island stop was to visit an aquarium. We opted out in order to drink more whilst floating in the sea. Dinner was spent with our new friends followed by happy hour red bull and vodka. The next day hangover was awful.

The boats crew giving it some on the home made drums

Lunch on the boat

Cooking up a storm in Hoi An

2007-10-01T02:36:00.000-07:00

We are now in Hoi An, about half way down Vietnam, and yesterday it stopped raining! So I ran around taking photos for the french style buildings in the morning and we both attended the Red Bridge cooking school in the afternoon. This included a tour of the local market, a 20min boat trip up the river to the school, demos, practice cooking and dinner. Really good afternoon.

This morning we went to My Son and saw the very old (accurate as ever) temples. But the rain is back - pelting it down - so that's why we are back on the Internet.

Off down the coast tomorrow in search of beach weather...

Dodging the rain in Vietnam

2007-09-29T03:41:00.000-07:00

We arrived in Hanoi, Vietnam on Saturday 22nd September via train from Guilin. The journey lasted 17 hours and we slept thel night in a soft seater coach with the exception of being woken for visa and passport checks.

In Hanoi we found cheap accomodation of 8US$ per night then went to see the very dead Ho Chi Minh in his Mausoleum. He looked like a wax work of Madame Tousaurds. In the same area was one pillar pagoda, the presidential palace and the museum.

The highlight of Hanoi was discovering Bai Hoi ( draught beer) for 2000 dong ( 6 pence) sitting beside a busy crossroad junction with hundreds of scooters passing by without crashing.

The next day we caught 3 buses and a boat to Cat Ba Island to the east of Hanoi in order to go climbing. A company called slopony are new routing there so we thought it would be good for a few days. We got one days climbing done before it rained and so all plans of deep water soloing on the Ha Long Bay Karsts did not happen:-( We did not even get a boat to look due to a promised storm. We waited a day incase but all forcasts said it would not stop for 5 days. Apparently it stopped the next day! (We've now been told a typhoon hit the next day and wiped out a few of the boats - Ed. 1/10/07)

We decided to go back to Hanoi and catch the overnight train to Hue. This time a hard sleeper, and hard it was. The only thing between me and the bunk was a carpet and a sheet. Surprisingly we slept quite well. Toilets and sinks were cleaner than expected and better than many I have used.

When we arrived in Hue we got bombarded by hoteliers and taxi drivers wanting us to use them. So we walked about a mile just to get away. That afternoon we walked around the Citadel. Many beautiful buildings in the Imperial Enclosure either having been repaired or being reconstructed after years of wartime bombing.

The next day we visited the Demiliterised Zone (DMZ) on a tour. It set off at 6am for 12 hours stopping only to briefly walk around or eat. Very interesting walking down Vietnamese underground tunnels at Vin Moch which were built and lived in during the war by both the local farmers and the Viet Com.

So today we moved on from Hue to Hoi An by bus. Still it continues to rain.

Farewell China

2007-09-29T03:38:00.000-07:00

So we have now left Yangshou and china but on the long train journey to Vietnam we rememberd all the good times we had in the month there....

Daniel (Ger) doing comedy dives into the river, Karsts reflected in the water.

Dan (USA) banging out another tune at the crag.

Butterfly at the top of Moon Hill (Not Butterfly cliff!).

Dinner at the night market, Yangshuo

In the Karst Cafe, again..

Stop press- Jo's lead climbing

2007-09-16T01:54:00.000-07:00

Baby Frog buttress. At last something I can climb, not an overhang in sight.

5.9

5.8

After we celebrated with good farmer's food, a swim in the river and a beer or two.

Photos of Dan on China White

2007-09-16T01:23:00.000-07:00

China White 5.12b (F7b) at White Mountain, Yangshuo.
Photos: top - mid route, middle - mid crux and bottom - just getting the jug at the crux.

A Change of Pace in Yangshuo

2007-09-09T21:39:00.000-07:00

We have now met loads of other climbers and so have stopped cycling to the crag and now share the cost of 'Speedy' the climber friendly taxi with a small mini bus. These mini buses have seats for 6 passengers, however they usually insist on cramming up to 10 or 11 in using miniature wooden stools in the centre isle - plus climbing gear and rough roads and you have one sweaty cramped journey.

Jo, Daniel (Ger) and Dan (USA) in the back of a Speedy.

Yesterday I managed to red point a 7b (5.12b) second go on lead - 'China White' at White Mountain. Being the first time I have managed to climb this grade ever I was quite pleased... In fact it was the target grade of the 15 months away, so what do I do now? Go home? No.

A photo will follow when i manage to get a pic from someone else.

Hand size spider with a lunch of dragon fly at White Mountain

We spent our last rest day kayaking down the Li River - saw loads of water Buffalo in the water and was extremely restful.

Jo on the Li River

Myself shortly before being asked to get out of the local equivalent on a transit van.

Don't forget the views...

Over the Moon in Yangshuo

2007-09-02T20:01:00.000-07:00

So we have been out and about, mainly climbing single pitch sports climbs but did quickly do a supposed 5 pitch route in just 3 rope lengths. The scenery is still amazing, seeing different things from different places.
Moon Hill is an amazing place to be. Took a few falls of increasing length up there too - but a guess this is sports climbing so its suppose to happen. Its so steep its an effort to get back in contact with the rock. Weee...

Moon Hill, Yangshuo - from the bottom. Most of the climbing is on the other side which is in the shade.

View through the Moon Hill arch - we climbed on the rock to the very right of the picture.

Is this a water buffalo or an Ox? The horny beasts are all over the place - wallowing in water and working the fields.

At last we found a river for a cooling mid climbing swim - near Twin Gates.

Jo starting the cycle back from Twin Gates (behind) - excellent climbing or orange limestone around the two caves.

We have been climbing! Yangshuo.

2007-08-29T01:38:00.000-07:00

We are now on our fourth day in Yangshuo and are settling into life here. Although very humid and hot we have been hiring bicycles and cycling along the flat roads and tracks through paddy fields to the local crags. Some good climbing has been had, although nothing too hard yet (soo hot) and Jo has been leading routes as well.

Out of focus photo if me on a 5.10d, must do better (photos and grade!)

The countryside around here is really scenic. Rock towers, the river, Ox in fields and locals in typical Chinese hats. The town has loads of places to eat, drink and be asked again and again if you want whatever. Then quite the main street even looks nice.

River and hills from Yangshuo

West Street, Yangshuo.

Hue Shan

2007-08-23T20:46:00.000-07:00

Our plan was to walk up the mountain at night to see sun rise at the top. Maybe due to my impatience to get going or maybe because we are so fit (maybe not) be climbed the almost endless steps and get to the East Peak by 1am (took 4 1/2 hours). So we had to wait a while for sunrise wearing shorts, t-shirt and think fleece. For once it was cold in china, perhaps due to the 2000m+ altitude and a slight wind.

At the summit of South Peak- the highest.

Jo, with view and some of the millions of padlocks and red ribbons left for good luck

The endless steps

Do you really need a sign to tell you this?

;-)

Note - no sunrise due to cloud :-(

Xi'an and the Army of Terracotta Warriors

2007-08-21T04:33:00.001-07:00

Xi'an and the Army of Terracotta Warriors

2007-08-21T04:33:00.000-07:00

The Great Wall

2007-08-21T04:27:00.000-07:00

Amazing views all around during the hot 10km walk along the wall.

Photos of Beijing

2007-08-21T04:07:00.001-07:00

Lonely Planet Cycle tour

Dinning out at a market - cheep, easy and good.

Photos of Beijing

2007-08-21T04:07:00.000-07:00

I can't read the blog, but can you?

2007-08-21T03:30:00.000-07:00

So after spending 4 days in Beijing, visiting the Great Wall, Forbidden City etc we took a short flight to Xi'an. Xi'an seems and feels like a lot nicer city - smaller, cleaner and easier for tourists, with more English on signs and things.
We have got into a good hostel, on spec, and after wasting 2hrs at the train station trying to get a ticket to Guilin we were told they are all booked for the next 10 days (i think to black market travel agents). We have now bought another 60 pound flight for Saturday instead.
We plan to go to Hue Shan tomorrow and make a cooler night ascent and come back here the next day. We'll see how that goes - 8km of steps at night for a dawn on the summit.

Today we did a trip to the trip to the Army of Terracotta Warriors. They were pretty amazing, hundreds of these full size figures all in line. The shutter button on my camera got a hammering!
Unfortunately my card reader is in the dorm and there is a cue for the free computers, so i can't show you now.

The weather is still very humid here and there is still plenty of smog. Someone told us that Beijing is trailing a scheme that only lets odd number plated cars on the roads one day and even the next - and sure enough it was true. Weird, but at least they are recognising they have a problem.

The Great Wall

2007-08-19T01:39:00.001-07:00

The first few days have been busy, and i've only figgered out how to get on this blog in the last few mins of my internet time. So i'll put up the photo of Jo on the Great Wall from yesterday and maybe fill in other details later. The views were excellent and the 10km walk was hot. We even went down a zip slide from the top at the end.

Stashing our gear, Police car crashes and doing a runner.

2007-08-14T03:42:00.001-07:00

Having spent the last two weeks travelling up and down the country stashing our belongings in various locations we were nearly there when in slow moving traffic an unmarked police car drives out of the station and into the side of my car. And no, it did not have lights flashing.

Result - both doors and rear side panel dented in only days before attempting to sell it before we leave the country and only one day after waxing it and getting it MOTed. Thanks Sheffield Police!?

Thanks to everyone that has helped us out in the last few weeks - storing our things, putting us up and hopefully selling the car after it has been fixed.

We're off to Beijing tomorrow and can't wait.

One house for rent

2007-07-04T08:39:00.000-07:00

Details for our house can be seen on the Bloor & Co website.

http://www.bloorandco.co.uk/results.php

For some reason they have put it in the 'For Sale' section by mistake. Its on the last page due to the low price.

15 days of school to go.

2007-06-29T09:49:00.000-07:00

And found this clip of some climbing in Ha Long Bay, Vietnam.
Wow - but can we climb hard enough to get out of the boat?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RclkxGIzPSk

Time to get off the computer and go climbing (but it's still wet out) and maybe eat less (but its fish & chips tonight).

Oh well, the trip should be long enough to get goodish at some point.

Did someone say it was summer?

2007-06-26T05:07:00.000-07:00

Rain, whats it good for?

On the plus side I have landed a day off work due to the excessive water falling from the sky in Sheffield. However it did take 3 1/2 hours to do the usually 20 min journey home yesterday.

Jono attempting Medusa Falls, Blacknor South, Portland.

Another surprise was that after a week of rain last week Portland proved its self once again as always being dry. The weekend trip to Jono and Claire's turned out well with top rate hosting, climbing (nowt spectacular, but out doing it) and a wander around Lulworth cove, cream teas included.

Cheese!

Claire looking for the hot chocolate somewhere under the cream

Oh, and ebay - that made me smile too. Selling old climbing gear that I no longer use for over £180 !! Ha ha ha. Must try and sell some more.

The BIG Trip (PLANS, Plans, plans)

2007-06-14T10:25:00.000-07:00

The map shows places we will be visiting (red dots), flight routes (blue lines) and overland travel (red lines). The dots not linked indicate places we will be visiting but are unsure of how we will be traveling there (although unlikely that we will overland from Australia to the US! - we have not yet booked this flight). Click on the map for a bigger view as the dots now seem very small.

The outline, so far, is...
15th Aug. - flight from London to Beijing, China
Stay in Beijing for 4 nights or so (Great wall, Forbidden City, cycle tour etc.)
Train to Xian
Xian for 2/3 night (terracotta army)
Train to Guillan (may go to other places on route)
Boat up the River Li to Yangshou
Stay in Yangshou for 2-3 weeks (Climbing, wowing at limestone towers, relaxing etc.)
Train to Vietnam (cross boarder at Dong Dang) to Hanoi
Travel down Vietnam coast via Ha Long Bay (Climbing??)
Continue down Vietnam coast by train or bus to My Tho and Ho Chi Minh City
Fly from Ho Chi Minh City (not booked yet) to Bangkok, Thailand
Fly to Krabi (not booked yet) and Ao Nag peninsula
Ton Sai climbing (we may have been there but it was that perfect)
Diving (Ko Lanta?) etc.
Back to Bangkok for 2 days sightseeing (Golden Palace etc)
12th November - Fly to Melbourne, buy car, catch up with Mark
Melbourne - buy car, catch up with Mark
Arapiles 'the worlds best crag' for a month (this is about 3hrs? from Melbourne)
Then 2 months working in Melbourne with trips to the Grampians (climbing), Tasmania??
2 months travelling south Australia (Blue Mountains + coast)
Work in Sydney then back to Melbourne
7th April - fly to Christchurch, New Zealand
New Zealand for 2 months - ?? no plans as yet - will buy the guide book while in Australia (bungee jump, climbing, touring, etc.)
Fly back to Australia (not booked flight yet) about 1st June
Australia for 3 months - travelling abound, maybe work (if needs must)
finishing diving the Great Barrier Reef
Fly from ?? to San Francisco (flight not booked yet) late Aug. start Sept.
Yosemite - Climbing (massive walls...) for at least one month
Travel around (hire car) Grand Canyon, Las Vagas, other climbing?
Los Angeles - fly home to England November 2008.
Get jobs, move back into our house, grow old.... as if.

Messing about on the river..... (bank).

2007-06-12T12:58:00.000-07:00

Summer has arrived... it's June and the sun has been out, yippee.

Spare time in the last few weeks has been spent down in Chee Dale both climbing and wandering around finding new places and enjoying the place with M&D.

Looking down the river from Maxis Wall, Chee Dale.

The interesting climbing bit is that you don't have to be a super hero to climb at The Embankment or surrounding area.

Last night after work Steve and I warmed up on the usual (Arachonothera Direct 6b+ and Prawnography 6c) then I moved onto the aim of the day Hungry Eyes 7a+. First time up I rested on the bolt near the top of the flake, at the crux moves, and again at the next bolt while trying to figure out the leftwards rock-over.

After a rest, holding the rope for Steve working the 7b Secret Gudgeon Society, I tied in for the second go - on the lead.

Twice I thought I was falling off. Twice I managed to keep on and make the next moves. Big move right at the top of the flake.... wow, then move left and make a rock-over...wow.. small ledge and the top... woo hoo. My first 7a+ (I think) in England - have done this grade in other counties though.

Got home by 11.30 for a cold shower (boiler broken) and bed. In the morning I was hungry (no dinner) and had red eyes (too little sleep), but I had climbed Hungry Eyes! - cheesey.

May bank holiday / Half term

2007-05-29T11:33:00.000-07:00

Iain on Embankment 2, E1 5B

Iain and Amanda came up to stay with us for the weekend and Lanky and Anja were up to stay with Nick and Becky. Between showers we all climbed at Millstone, that is apart from Nick who is still broken from the Font. trip. He was amused by playing with Iain's new BIG camera...So here are some more of his pictures: ...or there would be if they weren't so big and un-uploadable.

Lovely BBQ at Nicks on Saturday night and more consumption on Sunday (bowling, Thai and pub) were enforced due to rain.

The rest of the week should be used stripping, filling and painting the atic. Needs must.

Charlotte and Dan's Wedding

2007-05-17T12:37:00.000-07:00

Sunday 6th May

Aah, what a gorgous car.... I mean couple. ;-)

Since last summer

2007-05-10T11:42:00.000-07:00

The day after our wedding we took a flight to the Red Sea resort of Sharm. We both dived for the first time and took the Open Water course. Photos show these things best.

This looked like an absolutely massive eel, which at this point I thought was about to swallow my head.

Jo found all the diving OK (!!) and enjoyed being the class swot in all the tests (she can burn me off on something at last).

We took a two day trip to Cairo to see the Pyramids, Sphinx and took a dinner cruise on the Nile.

No fun allowed though - No Climbing. The police have guns but seem to prefer to throw rocks at people - we saw it happen!

And that the publishable highlights of our honeymoon.

Due to having to work (tut) the next trip was in October, to Portugal. Having not been on a climbing trip since Easter I envisaged this to be a climbing trip rather than a family holiday for Jo's family to get to know us (or me). The camera was broken so no pics.

My highlight were climbing Carpe Diem 6c, Kamet 7a and Finger Party 7a all at the local crag of Rocha Da Pena.

The trip was dogged by rain and a bit of tense family stuff.

27th January

Jono and Clare's Wedding

A FANTASTIC day, great to share your happy day.

Easter 4-9 April Fontainbleau.

Excellent fun being with friends in the non-serious forest of Font. Never have I been an a climbing trip were so many managed to break themselves. Good effort on Nicks crutch though lads.

Pembroke 11-15 April

Amazing! Steep, massive holds, good gear, atmosphere AND sun.

Can't believe we've missed out on this place 'till now.

Managed to climb Deranged E2 5b, Rock Idol E1 5b (but steep as..) and Clean Hand Blues Band E2 5b (or c) as well as a load of easier routes. There can be no bigger difference between Font. and Pembroke climbing.

High Tor 21 April

Got spanked by 'Darius' E2 5c. 2/3 of the way up and had a bit of an epic - rubbish gear, heavy arms, rope drag and rusty old pegs. Need a return match.

Cloggy 28 April

Jim and I made an early start and managed the 1 1/2 hr walk in by 10am. Absailed into the East Gully Wall and climbed Shrike E2 5c. I've wanted to do this for years. Jim took the first short hard pitch taking a lead fall on the way and I took the long wandering top pitch. Wow what a pitch... fully made up with it, big smiles all around.

We also did Great Slab VS and had a good un.

29 April Clogwyn Grochan

An easier day - Nea** VS 4b,4a,4b... and Brant** VS 4c.

5 May Millstone

Sunny as it turned out.

Supra Direct and Dexterity both E1 5b provided my exercise. Dextrous Hare was the target for others but success was not always given.

What we've been up to

Home

Dublin

LA

Joshua Tree

Around Moab

Cramming in cracks at Indian Creek

The cowboy views

What goes on in Vagas does not stay in Vagas

Life at Camp 4

Cracking up in Yosemite

San Francisco - welcome to the U. S. of A.

Hanging around in Brisbane

More photos added to old posts

Back at Frog and practicing cheating

Ahh, Noosa...

Turning around and heading South

Dive, Dive, Dive.

Frankie the Ford Falcon goes for an early bath in the Daintree

The Whitsundays

Fraiser Island

Mandarins and Fish

Glasshouse Mountains and Australia Zoo

Its a dogs life at Surfers Paradise

Trouble with Frankie

Cracking up at Frog Buttress

We have booked our next set of flights...

Dan's new route at Mangaokewa

More tourist stuff.

Climbing in the North Island

A bit of the North Island.

It is all JUST climbing.

The Paynes of getting Older (Jo turns 30 at Paynes Ford)

Big Fish

Wanaka and West Coast

Queenstown Fun

Around South Island

Christchurch, Castle Hill and down.

Goodbye Melbourne

You know its the right time to leave Arapiles when...

Doing some sums...

The Australian F1 Grand Prix

Loving and Loathing - the Mount Buffalo weekend.

Photos of us on the Totem Pole by Simon Carter

The best crag in the world - Arapiles revisited.

Working life in Melbourne

The Blue Mountains should be renamed 'The Blue Valleys'.

Gotham City (otherwise known as Sydney)

Boats, Bikes, Jobs, Gym and Tennis.

New Years in Hobart

Tasmania 4 - THE Totem Pole

Tasmania 3 - At the seaside

Christmas and Boxing day. (Taz 2)

Tasmania 1 - Taking lessons from a crack addict.

Life at the Pines - Mt Arapiles

BIG things - Part 1

The Great Ocean Road

Hay Jack, I've been surfing!

One night in Bangkok

Dive, dive, dive.

2 days on Koh Lanta

Phi Phi

On the rocks at Ton Sai beach

Angkor What?

Friends blogspot addresses

Phnom Phen - Pol Pot - what a nasty man!

The Mekong Delta to Cambodia

Dalat and Saigon

Beach and Boat days in Nha Trang

Cooking up a storm in Hoi An

Dodging the rain in Vietnam

Farewell China

Stop press- Jo's lead climbing

Photos of Dan on China White

A Change of Pace in Yangshuo

Over the Moon in Yangshuo

We have been climbing! Yangshuo.

Hue Shan

Xi'an and the Army of Terracotta Warriors

Xi'an and the Army of Terracotta Warriors